Genuss und Feinsinn Autumn-Winter 2020Sunday, 15 November 2020
IN CONVERSATION WITH THOMAS JIRGENS JUWELENSCHMIEDE MUNICH
In his Juwelenschmiede in Munich, Thomas Jirgens transforms the finest materials into pieces of jewelry. He tailors each creation individually to the wearer's facial shape, complexion and eye color. In his studio he talks to us about his greatest inspiration, reveals what drives him and shows us his current autumn/winter creations.
Christina Sorg: When selecting gemstones, do you keep seasonal trends in mind?
Thomas Jirgens: Of course. The four seasons are like a superior structural order and have a strong influence on the world of fashion, especially in terms of color. But it's not only apparel that is guided by the prevailing season but also my jewelry’s gemstones.
Christina Sorg: In what way do you let yourself be inspired by the seasons?
Thomas Jirgens: Every season holds its own unique spirit and I uncover it. Besides the poetry of light, which keeps changing with the seasons, it is above all the multifaceted, vibrant colors of nature that are reflected in my jewelry creations. Through its innate radiance and color, each gemstone has, in a way, its own charisma. Some gems glow in vivid shades of color; others are more subtle in hue, appear contemplative and attract the eye precisely for this reason. To me, there is nothing more delightful and emotionally touching than to accompany the lovely season of cherry blossoms in spring with delicate morganites, pastel-colored rose quartz or pink sapphires — gemstones are like flowers, only they do not wilt. Or think of the soft, warm orange, gold and earth tones in autumn. These I capture with a composition of mandarin garnets, smoky quartzes and ecru-colored Indian diamonds.
Christina Sorg: So every stone tells its own story. What do you do with it?
Thomas Jirgens: First and foremost, I want to emphasize every woman’s natural beauty. My jewelry does not take on a life of its own, it interacts with the charisma of its wearer and accentuates her individual personality. The jewel is like a mage who enchants the woman’s aura.
Christina Sorg: What details do you pay particular attention to when it comes to the perfect piece of jewelry for a woman?
Thomas Jirgens: The choice of color of the gemstone, which enhances the wearer’s complexion, hair and especially the eyes, is the most important thing next to shape. An earring should frame the woman's face like an exclusive work of art and thus emphasize it in the most ideal way. It is similar with the proportions of a gem for a ring. Its cut and size must correspond to the hand and pick up details like the shape of a fingernail in order to be a companion that will provide joy for life. A jewel created for its wearer.
Christina Sorg: Every person has multiple doppelgangers in the world. What about gemstones?
Thomas Jirgens: With gemstones, perfect pairs above a certain size are difficult to find. Often, however, it is precisely the differences that bring a pair to life. Especially when shapes are identical and colors complementary, I find this very appealing and alluring for pairs.